When most people hear the word "bespoke," they think of high-priced and luxurious items, such as a classic Chanel suit or other name-brand clothing items and accessories that are unique and personalized, unlike anything you'd find in a department store. Nonetheless, we now hear the term "bespoke" thrown around a lot more in common advertisements, often out of context. Interior designers are now using the term "bespoke" to market a new kitchen or a restaurant offering a new meal on their menu. 

While "bespoke" does not only refer to clothing, but bespoke tailoring also refers to creating a piece of clothing for an individual. It is typically associated with jackets, suits, tuxedos, etc. The word is associated with luxury or expensive items because making a bespoke garment requires the highest level of skill and material quality, both of which are costly. 

Quick History of Bespoke Tailoring   

Bespoke suiting is the pinnacle of men's tailoring and the male equivalent of haute couture. To give you some context, bespoke tailoring began over 200 years ago, before the sewing machine, when all garments were constructed by hand. From the Middle Ages to the 18th century, tailors created their patterns using methods kept secret from one another, not even being shared with apprentices until the master tailor retired and handed over their craft. The handwork and craftsmanship were exceptional, and many more fittings were required to achieve a fit that would work for every body type.

By the nineteenth century, London's West End was bustling as the center of bespoke tailoring (becoming what we now know as Saville Rowe), with numerous other tailors from Europe and around the world beginning to share their techniques and becoming the forefathers of what we now see in Italian, Japanese, and French tailoring. With technological advancements and the sewing machine's invention, tailors could streamline the tailoring process, reduce the number of fittings, and achieve unparalleled accuracy. Because of their cost-effective and time-efficient techniques, mass-produced garments and the rise of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits grew during this period. 

True bespoke tailoring has grown in popularity in the last ten years. There is a significant difference between a bespoke and a made-to-measure suit, though many made-to-measure tailors today muddy the waters and masquerade as bespoke. The patterns are the first and most noticeable difference. After taking your measurements, a bespoke tailor and their master pattern maker can take up to a day to create your patterns from scratch. This immediately focuses on the person's body type, addressing issues before the garment is sewn. A bespoke tailor will hand stitch the garments with meticulous care and precision to achieve the best results.

A truly bespoke suit is distinguished by its high quality. Once your first suit is perfectly fitted, your patterns will be vaulted away for you to use for your next suit, making the bespoke process as efficient as made-to-measure garments while maintaining old-world quality and craftsmanship.

What Is Bespoke Tailoring?

Bespoke tailoring is a traditional method of creating clothing by hand from an individual pattern. A pattern is the construction plan for the various garment parts created with body measurements that consider the human form's asymmetrical shape. This means that a tailor will measure the chest, waist, back, and seat circumferences and the length and circumference of both legs and arms. He will also determine the armholes' exact position and the shoulder slope degree. Furthermore, they will check the front and side balance, which means they will notice whether the customer is bent forward, has a very upright position, or has a very rounded back.

All of these measurements and observations of figure peculiarities (which everyone has) will be used to create the garment pattern, which is usually started by drawing a vertical line on a piece of brown paper. This vertical line represents the jacket's back seam. This line will be slightly curved to conform to the shape of the customer's back from his neck to his seat.

Given the misuse of the term "bespoke," how can you be certain that an offering is truly bespoke tailoring? It's not uncommon for businesses to offer "custom" clothing or even outright sell bespoke clothes made-to-measure. A true bespoke tailor typically makes his clothes in a workshop on his premises, and you will almost certainly work directly with the tailor. Every true bespoke tailor will be happy to show you where his clothes are made, and he should be able to demonstrate a thorough understanding of his craft. Be wary if a manufacturer does not allow visitors into his workshop, if his facilities are remote, or if someone other than the tailor manages client interactions and measurements.   

Advantages And Disadvantages of Bespoke Tailoring

Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke tailoring:

Advantages 

• The tailor fits bespoke clothing at least twice so that the final garment is altered at each stage to better fit your figure.
• Traditional trained tailors cut and sew their clothes by hand, resulting in a better and more comfortable fit.
• If everything goes as planned, a bespoke suit is the best you can get in uniqueness and handmade quality.
• A good bespoke tailor's style, shape, and fit options are nearly limitless.

Disadvantages

• Bespoke clothing requires two fittings, which necessitates the buyer personally being at the tailor's workshop three times; because bespoke work takes time, this could mean staying near the tailor for weeks or making multiple trips to the workshop. 
• Because some tailors outsource work to other artisans to save time, the quality of the handwork varies. And, on occasion, these craftsmen or the tailor will be in a hurry, resulting in poor quality.
• Unless you have a reliable recommendation, it is difficult to predict how good the outcome will be if you try a tailor for the first time.
• You must know exactly what you want and be able to communicate your desires. Misunderstandings frequently occur, resulting in significant disappointment and time loss.

What To Expect with Bespoke Tailoring?

If you want to have a bespoke suit, tux, or other outfit made for you, you can do a few things to make the process go more smoothly.

You must conduct extensive research to determine which tailors are capable of such a skill in your area. At the same time, you should read their reviews. You'll also need to know what style you want. You won't waste as much time during the appointment this way.

Keep in mind that the tailor may make some suggestions, so keep your ears and mind open to everything. While they will not force you to choose what they believe is in your best interests, their advice will undoubtedly assist you in making your final decision.

While you can do those things, there are a few things you should not do during your bespoke tailoring appointment. For example, you should not buy something you will not wear frequently. Bespoke garments are costly, and if you plan to wear them only once for a special occasion, bespoke tailoring may not be the best option for you. Furthermore, they are works of art that should be shared with the world rather than sitting in your closet.

The Bespoke Tailoring Process with Isaac Ely

Bespoke tailoring also takes a long time. You won't walk into a tailoring shop expecting your outfit to be finished in an hour. A bespoke piece can take days or even weeks to complete! Why does it take so long? This is because the master tailor must take numerous measurements and construct the garment to ensure a perfect fit. We at Isaac Ely will ensure that your bespoke garment is well worth the wait.

Step 1: Know What You Want