A bespoke tailor is a professional who creates custom clothing based on a customer's specific measurements and requests. This differs from common tailoring, in which ready-to-wear clothes are altered to better fit certain constraints, and made-to-measure clothing is cut from standard patterns. Becoming a bespoke tailor often requires years of apprenticeship and training; even then, success is not guaranteed.

Most prospective tailors begin vocational training at a young age. Particularly gifted students may sign on with a clothier early on to become a bespoke tailor. Still, the majority achieve this status only after years of performing alterations and other less prestigious work, at which point they can try moving on to custom work. Bespoke tailors are a relatively uncommon and specialized profession.

The Process of a Bespoke Tailor

The use of raw fabrics in the construction of bespoke clothing is one of its distinguishing features. Bespoke refers to anything made from scratch, but suits are the most common example. The client specifies the material and specifications, such as the type of cuffs and pleats, and the tailor hand-makes the product from large sheets of fabric.

This type of clothing can be quite costly. Understanding a customer's exact desires and successfully translating them into a finished product is one of the keys to becoming a bespoke tailor. It is not always as simple as taking the submitted design specifications and producing garments that meet them. A tailor must frequently interpret clients' wants and create clothing with unique touches that improve on the rough outline.

Bespoke garments are not always of high quality. Not all bespoke tailors are created equal, just like chefs, mechanics, and other similar professions. The merits of one's work determine success and those who excel at making scratch clothing see their business expand and can charge higher prices.

As an experienced bespoke tailor, Isaac Ely prioritizes ensuring that your garments are tailored to complement your natural body posture, physique, and movement pattern. To accomplish this, you may be asked to stand at various angles, walk around, or stand still when entering the tailor shop to determine exactly what dimensions would accentuate your natural presence. Finding the right fit is half the battle, so this step is critical to ensuring that the finished product is perfectly tailored to your preferences and natural shape.

What Is Bespoke Tailoring?

For most of the last century, bespoke was commonly associated with bespoke men's tailoring on Savile Row. Today, we hear the term "bespoke" thrown around in many common advertisements, often out of context. Interior designers may use the term "bespoke" to market a new kitchen or a restaurant offering a new menu item.

The pinnacle of men's fashion is true bespoke tailoring. Bespoke tailoring combines the fundamental principles of bespoke with the masterful craft of tailoring. To be considered a truly bespoke garment, it must be made with the highest quality materials, construction, and skilled craftsmanship.

Bespoke tailoring employs a pattern created from scratch each time a skilled cutter makes a garment. During a bespoke garment fitting, your master stylists or tailor will take up to 40 measurements to ensure the perfect fit every time. Your tailor will create a pattern from your measurements that will be used as a construction plan for each of the different sections of the garment during construction.

In addition to the other specifications, a truly bespoke garment requires multiple fittings and must always be fully canvased.

The Meaning Of "Bespoke"

The misuse of the term bespoke has left many perplexed about what it truly means. Our goal is to dispel misunderstandings about the term "bespoke" and provide you with a clearer picture of its true meaning.

When you hear the word "bespoke," the first thing that probably comes to mind is "expensive" and "luxurious." Bespoke refers to something made specifically for you and only you based on your specifications. Although bespoke is not limited to clothing, it is most commonly associated with men's professional attire, such as suits, tuxedos, sports jackets, and more.

The Difference Between Made-To-Measure And Bespoke Tailoring

You've probably heard the words, but you're not sure what they mean. So, what's the distinction between custom and bespoke suits for men?

First and foremost, let's define ready-to-wear' and 'off-the-rack.' This is when you walk into a store and purchase a ready-made suit in your size. There is no tailoring, and these suits are designed to fit a wide range of men.

So, how about tailored suits for men? These are roughly divided into three categories. The first is the made-to-measure suit, followed by the custom and a bespoke suit. Men's tailored suits are a catch-all phrase for any suit modification.

There are five key distinctions between made-to-measure suits and bespoke suits:

Pattern Making

When it comes to made-to-measure suits, the tailor takes your general measurements (for example, 40 chest and 32 waist) and modifies standard patterns such as lengths and widths to fit your body shape.

You'll receive a new pattern designed specifically for you based on at least 25 body measurements and posture images. The tailor will not alter base patterns if they miss an individual detail of your body. Pattern-making for bespoke suits extends beyond measurements.

Fitting

There is an initial consultation to take measurements with made-to-measure tailoring, and the suit is delivered after production. Minor changes to the final product are possible.

A truly bespoke fit will necessitate multiple fittings. It starts with the skeleton baste fitting, moves on to the forward fitting, and finally to the fin bar fitting. Some tailors will perform up to five mid-fittings. This is done to achieve a more precise fit as the process progresses.

Selecting Fabric

For made-to-measure tailoring, you have a limited selection of fabrics from one or two mills. Rather than mills, the choice is between fabrics.

Isaac Ely bespoke tailor, works with various mills to source fabrics for various functions, such as suits, shirts, trousers, jackets, overcoats, tuxedos, and denim. During the consultation, you may be shown a complete fabric selection of swatches.

Customization

You get to choose how many buttons you want, the style of your pockets, the number of vents, and the options for cuffs and pleats with made-to-measure tailoring. Some men's tailors will let you choose the interior lining and lapel width.

When it comes to styling your bespoke suit, there are no rules. With Isaac Ely, you can personalize various styling elements such as special pockets inside your jacket, monogramming your initials (essential for wedding suits), and buttonholes color. You can also customize garment elements between fittings if a specific element was not discussed during the initial consultation.

Personal Experience

When ordering made-to-measure tailoring, you will speak with a salesperson rather than a master tailor. They are only there to take measurements and pass them along to the tailors. It's debatable how skilled they are.

For bespoke tailoring, you'll meet with the person who makes your bespoke suit and a personal stylist. The person who cuts the fabric and stitches the seams should be intimately familiar with the nuances of your body.

Why Should You Choose Garments from A Bespoke Tailor?

Buying bespoke tailoring boils down to two factors: fit and quality. To truly determine whether bespoke is right for you, consider what you are looking for.

1. Accessibility