Archives for September 2019

Dinner Jacket

Dinner Jacket

A dinner jacket is a jacket that is worn for upscale or fancy functions. The fabric of the lapel is usually made of a different material such as silk than a suit jacket. It may also be referred to as a tuxedo jacket. A dinner jacket normally comes with matching or fashion coordinated pants. 

Dinner jackets are different from suits, in that they are more bold and the lapels are more sheek and have a sharper cut on the length of the bust of the jacket and a tighter fit on the width of the waist. 

It is important to note dinner jackets come in various design styles and can be single or double-breasted. A dinner jacket is differentiated from a blazer, by being more streamlined and having a sharp cut along the length of the lapel, with the material on the lapel being made of satin, in most cases. Also, a dinner jacket is designed to give the wearer a slim fit and uplift one’s posture with a sense of upstanding confidence.

You can choose from either a peak, notch or shawl collar for the lapel. A dinner jacket comes in a wide array of colors and design styles. You can choose from black, white, cream color, various colors of velvet and many patterns; including plaid. 

A dinner jacket, rightly styled and properly fitted, by an expert custom tailor is your winning ticket to any upscale featured event. You will be outfitted for success and adornment, while wearing your luxurious elegant sleek and stunning upper body armour. 

A properly custom tailored dinner jacket is fitted to display a slim waist and a broad chest for those that wear it. It gives its wearers a sense of boldness, strength and power, above and beyond a power suit. Dinner jackets show the onlooking audience that the fashionista that sports a dinner jacket is the real leader of the event and spectacle focus of attention. Due to the streamlined style and sharp cut of the lapel and dinner jacket positions its wearer as being a fearless and highly confident professional. 

Dinner jackets prepare you both mentally and physically to be your best at a dinner, social mixer or gala. There are many other event venues that welcome your dinner jacket attire, such as weddings, baby namings, corporate events and fundraising events. 

 

What is Bespoke Suit?

What is bespoke suit?

According to The Savile Row Bespoke Association the definition for the word “bespoke” is:

“A suit made on or around Savile Row, bespoken to the customer’s specifications. A bespoke suit is cut by an individual and made by highly skilled individual craftsmen. The pattern is made specifically for the customer and the finished suit will take a minimum of 50 hours of hand work and require a series of fittings.”

A Bespoke suit, first and foremost is a suit that is spoken for by a custom client, or rather the spoken for suit is custom made for a client. It is tailor-made, so to speak, but it really beyond being tailor-made, as such. A bespoke suit will be custom cut, trimmed, shaped and tailored to ensure a perfect and most comfortable fit for the client. 

Every detail from the style of the fabric to the thread count to the material to be used is custom chosen for a unique and prized client. A bespoke suit is a cut above any made to measure suit.

The bespoken process is a involved process between a client and his tailor. Just like a person can invest their money with a bank through a teller or with a money manager at an investment firm or a hedge fund or even at a bank or trust company. The level of specialization and focus is what differentiates a bespoke suit from a made to measure suit. 

The Bespoke Tailor Made Process for Crafting a Bespoke Suit: 

  • Pattern Making
  • Multiple Fittings
  • Fabric Selection
  • Design / Customization Available
  • Meeting One-On-One With Tailor

A Bespoke suit is really part of a bespoken for process. Your Tailor is a specialist, no less than a Doctor is a master of medicine, a Tailor is a master of fashion. A Tailor can scientifically custom design or refine a suit, made out of select fabric and with a set thread count and Tailor it to perfection. 

A Bepoken for suit, customized by a competent Tailor can embolden your appearance and enrich your sense of self worth. A Bespoke Tailor can know in advance of customizing a suit how it will look on you, based on lighting and weather conditions. A Bespoke Tailor will assess in advance the necessity of using certain materials or fabrics over others, based on the set venue and purpose of an event and your professional role there.

A Bespoke suit will require a series of fittings and trimings to ensure a super quality ‘cut and fit’ for an enriched style, suited to each unique client. That is perhaps the main difference between a made to measure suit and a bespoke suit. Relationship between the Tailor and the client is of paramount importance. Learning about one’s client, to know the client’s field or business or work and the specific purpose for the suit, is of utmost importance, over and above, just tailoring a suit to fit according to standard measurements.

What is a Bespoke Suit?

The word bespoke has evolved from a verb meaning “to speak for something” to its contemporary usage as an adjective that has changed from describing first tailor-made suits and shoes, and later, to anything commissioned to a particular specification (altered or tailored to the customs, tastes, or usage of an individual purchaser), and finally to a general marketing and branding concept implying exclusivity and appealing to snobbery. 

History

The word bespoke is most known for its “centuries-old relationship” with tailor-made suits,[2] but the Oxford English Dictionary also ties the word to shoemaking in the mid-1800s.[7] Although it is now used as an adjective, it was originally used as the past participle of bespeak.[2] According to a spokesperson for Collins English Dictionary, it later came to mean to discuss, and then to the adjective describing something that was discussed in advance, which is how it came to be associated with tailor-made apparel.[2] The word was used as an adjective in A Narrative of the Life of Mrs Charlotte Charke, the 1755 autobiography of the actress Charlotte Charke, which refers to The Beaux’ Stratagem as “a bespoke play”.[2] After that, the adjective was generally associated with men’s tailor-made suits.[2]

Before about the 19th century, most clothing was made to measure, or bespoke, whether made by professional tailors or dressmakers, or as often, at home. The same applied to many other types of goods. With the advent of industrialised ready to wear clothing, bespoke became largely restricted to the top end of the market, and is now normally considerably more expensive, at least in developed countries.

At some point after that, the word bespoke came to be applied to more than tailoring, although it is unclear exactly when.[7] Mark-Evan Blackman of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York told the Wall Street Journal in 2012 that the “bespoke proliferation may be tied to young Hollywood types becoming enamored with custom suits about a decade ago”.[7] The Wall Street Journal article said that “language purists” were not happy, while suit makers said the word had been “bastardized”.[7]

Before about the 19th century, most clothing was made to measure, or bespoke, whether made by professional tailors or dressmakers, or as often, at home. The same applied to many other types of goods. With the advent of industrialised ready to wear clothing, bespoke became largely restricted to the top end of the market, and is now normally considerably more expensive, at least in developed countries.

At some point after that, the word bespoke came to be applied to more than tailoring, although it is unclear exactly when.[7] Mark-Evan Blackman of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York told the Wall Street Journal in 2012 that the “bespoke proliferation may be tied to young Hollywood types becoming enamored with custom suits about a decade ago”.[7] The Wall Street Journal article said that “language purists” were not happy, while suit makers said the word had been “bastardized”.[7]

Contemporary usage

Fitting of a bespoke jacket

In 1990, American writer William Safire, questioned in a New York Times article what had become of “custom, a word fading from our fashion vocabulary in a blizzard of British usage”.[6] In a play on words, he wrote of the snob appeal[3] of the word: “To be suitably trendy, bespeak to me of bespoke tailoring.”[6] Gentlemen’s Quarterly magazine wrote that the word was “gaining in popularity”, meaning “the opposite of off-the-rack”.[8] In its contemporary usage, it implies exclusivity, and is used as an aid in marketing[1] and branding.[9] A 2014 India Today article described bespoke as an emerging branding trend that marketers would need to embrace.[9]

In this article, we’ll be discussing what a bespoke suit is, the bespoke process, average prices, whether going bespoke is right for you, and the difference between custom and bespoke suits.

Having named this blog “Bespoke Unit,” it should come as no surprise that bespoke clothing has a heritage that’s near and dear to us.

When a suit enthusiast hears the word “bespoke,” his ears perk up. This is because the term is a loaded one.

It represents over a century and a half of the finest tailoring that money can buy. A bespoke suit is synonymous with the highest possible quality, fit, and style.

It also happens to be one of the most overused and least understood terms in all of menswear. Our goal is to clear up any confusion around the word so that you can be a better-equipped purchaser of suits.

Etymology Of The Word “Bespoke”

The dictionary definition of bespoke is as follows:

bespoke (adj.): custom or custom-made, made to order of goods (as distinguished from ready made)

The Savile Row Bespoke Association has a much narrower definition for the word “bespoke”:

“A suit made on or around Savile Row, bespoken to the customer’s specifications. A bespoke suit is cut by an individual and made by highly skilled individual craftsmen. The pattern is made

specifically for the customer and the finished suit will take a minimum of 50 hours of hand work and require a series of fittings.”

Fabrics

Fabric

Types of Fabric for suits and shirts: 

  • Wool
  • Cotton 
  • Linen
  • Silk 
  • Cashmere 
  • Sea island cotton
  • Mohair 
  • Vacuna
  • Alpaca 

Spun yarn is obtained from textile fibers whose origins can be animal – such as silk or wool – or vegetable – such as cotton or linen. Chemical fibers are divided into artificial (rayon) and synthetic (polyamide and polyester) types.

“Do clothes make the man or does the man make the clothes?” “Man of the cloth.” “Tailor made.” Each of these phrases conveys a universal truth. What a person wears influences the perception of those with whom comes into contact. A person’s clothing is an extension of that person. The way one dresses determines the perception that others have of that person. 

A key component in all types of clothing is the fabrics that are used to create the clothing. The fabric used determines the feel and style of the suit or shirt or pants. Some fabrics have a unique style or pattern that is part of the fabric. Other fabrics might have a color scheme sown into it, while others could be dyed or artificially colored.

A suit made of wool or silk will feel differently to the wearer, than one made of combination of mixed wool and linen fibres. One hundred percent cotton shirts will feel different than those made of polyester. The feel of the fabric directly influences the confidence of the one that wear the clothing. An expensive or consistent fabric could imbue a sense of confidence to the person wearing the clothes.

Whether your shirt or pants or entire suit is made of woven or blended fabrics sewn together, how you feel in the clothes will determine how you feel. More importantly, the fabric you wear will have an effect on those that observe you. Bright colors will put the mind at ease, while woven fabrics can draw out feelings of comfort and a sense of peacefulness. Also, the source of the fabric will influence the observer in one way or another. A suit made of animal sources, such as cashmere or vicuña, will create a different feel to the person wearing it; as a opposed to a suit comprised of  or plant sources, such as cotton or flax. Synthetic fibers are usually less breathable, than animal or plant sourced fabrics.

Let us consider that textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources: animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute, bamboo), mineral (asbestos, glass fibre), and synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon). The first three are natural. While sythetic fibres are manufactured in laboratories, by humans through a process of  chemical synthesis; as opposed to natural fibers that humans get from living organisms, with little or no chemical changes. They are the result of extensive research by scientists to improve on naturally occurring animal fibers and plant fibers.

Dress Shirt

Dress Shirts

There are many different collar styles, including the following options:

  • Rounded collar
  • English spread collar
  • French spread collar
  • Cutaway collar
  • Semi-spread collar
  • Nehru collar
  • Full spread collar
  • Semi-spread collar
  • Long point collar
  • Tab collar
  • Tuxedo collar
  • Button-down collar
  • Two or three buttons on the band of the collar for casual dress shirts.

Angle and length of a shirt collar can vary. Each style or design of shirt collar can be tailored to match and showcase the unique facial profile of the wear. Appropriate collar height is essential, based on the length of the neck of the wearer.

All men’s dress shirts have an inner lining, in the collar and in the cuff. Some linings are soft, while other collar linings are firm or extra firm. Canvas is used to ensure that the collar/cuff stays firm and maintains its form, even after many washings. There are two types of canvas used in the collar and cuff. One is fusible, which means that it is glued into the material. The other option is non fusible, whereby the canvas is sewn into the material.

It is possible to make a long neck look shorter, by tailoring a longer band collar, or to make a short neck look longer, with a shorter collar band. 

Spread cutaway collars are for those that want to look and seem more modern. The higher the corners the richer the look

Detachable collars were more popular in the early 1900’s. Nowadays, a competent shirtmaker can easily replace a frayed collar, by sewing a new one, in its place, to ensure that the shirt will last longer. The same is true of a frayed shirt cuff. 

Dress shirts shape the person who wears them. Depending on the type of collar displayed, the wearer will showcase their personality type. One’s level of professionalism or creativity will immediately shine through based on their choice of dress shirt, type of collar and style of cuff.

A person might have a big neck compare to his body size or big body with small frame neck. Tailor made shirts are unique. A shirtmaker considers the size and shape of the neck  and body of his clients to make the best fitting custom shirt for each individual. 

Even if an individual were to seek out and find an expensive high-end brand name dress shirt, the dress shirt acquired would not be of the same quality or size requirements, as a dress shirt purchased from a competent shirtmaker. 

A dress shirt of the right quality can showcase the difference between sincere style and silly sass. Be sure to choose a top notch shirtmaker that can ensure your dress shirt is a cut above the rest.